Roses are excellent flowering plants, and propagating them through softwood cuttings is an efficient method. This technique allows for the production of a large number of seedlings quickly, even with just a few mother plants. Softwood cuttings can be taken from May to August, and within 30 to 40 days, a batch of seedlings can be ready. You can propagate 3 to 4 batches per year, which helps maintain a steady supply for nurseries. However, this process requires careful attention and strict management. Here's how it's done:
First, prepare the cutting bed. Softwood cuttings can be rooted in either a hotbed or a cold bed. For convenience, the bed size should be as simple as possible, such as 1.5 or 2 meters wide, oriented east to west for optimal light and warmth. The bed height should have a 20- to 30-cm difference between the front and back, with a depth of about 60 cm. A 10-cm layer of stones is placed at the bottom, followed by 15–20 cm of horse manure, 15–20 cm of coarse sand, and then another 20 cm of fine sand. The bed can be constructed using wooden frames, brick walls, or glass tiles, ensuring no staining occurs. The hotbed cover should be made of wood with glass installed, and window frames should be painted to extend their lifespan. Iron handrails are added at both ends for easy access.
Next, heat the hotbed. Horse manure is stacked to reach temperatures of 50–60°C and spread evenly to a thickness of 15–20 cm. Water is sprayed at about 1 kg per square meter until the surface is damp but not wet. Once heated, the manure is laid on top of the soil, with raw manure placed beneath to ensure long-lasting heat. The top layer is fine sand (15 cm thick, with grain size 1–1.5 mm). If mixed with mud or humus, it must be washed before use. After laying the sand, the glass cover is placed over the bed. During the day, sunlight warms the bed, and at night, grass curtains are used to retain heat. The next day, cuttings are inserted.
For the cutting process, select healthy, tender shoots from the current year’s growth, about 8–15 cm long, ideally semi-woody. Avoid using long, thorny, or flowering branches. Harvest early in the morning (5–7 AM) and cut quickly. Do not collect wet cuttings or pile them too tightly. After harvesting, remove the lower 3–4 leaves, and trim the upper 2–3 leaves. Use sharp scissors to make clean cuts at the semi-woody part, ensuring the cut is smooth and not torn.
Insert the cuttings into the sand up to 15 cm deep, making sure not to damage the base. Use small sticks to create holes, insert the cuttings, and treat them with naphthalene acetate or 2,4-D to promote rooting. Immediately water after insertion.
After planting, spray water regularly—four times a day: once in the morning (5–7 AM), once at 11–12 PM, once at 2–3 PM, and once at 5–7 PM. On rainy days, reduce watering. Use a fine-sprayer to keep the leaves moist without overwatering. Place a clear water basin in the bed to help maintain humidity. Shade the cuttings from 8 AM to 5 PM. In rainy weather, allow more wind exposure. To increase temperature, use indirect sunlight in the evening. As roots develop, gradually increase air exposure to strengthen the seedlings. Keep the bed clean to prevent rot.
Finally, transplant the seedlings after about 30 days. Carefully remove them from the cutting bed and place them in small pots filled with rich soil, compost, or garden soil. Water immediately and return them to the hotbed for continued care. After 3–5 days, slowly increase ventilation. Once they adapt to open conditions, move them to the outdoor bed. Transplant only when the roots turn from white to tan, indicating lignification. Perform transplanting in the evening and provide shade for a day or two.
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