Grafting is a common method used to propagate grapevines by using cuttings. Depending on the type of branch, cuttings can be classified into hardwood cuttings and green cuttings. In practical applications, hardwood cuttings are most frequently used due to their reliability and ease of handling.
One key principle in rooting is that grapevines naturally form adventitious roots at the base of the cutting. These roots develop from the division of cells in the axon sheath, not from callus tissue. While callus tissue may form during the process, it plays no direct role in root development. However, it is crucial for protecting the cut end from bacterial infection and preventing rot, while also helping to maintain the integrity of the cutting.
Grapevines tend to produce more roots at the nodes because the nodes store more nutrients compared to internodes. This makes them more favorable for rooting. Additionally, young annual shoots typically root better than older, perennial branches.
It’s important to note that grapevines cannot produce new buds from their roots, so root cuttings are not viable. Similarly, internodes do not generate adventitious buds, which means that each cutting must have at least one healthy bud to ensure successful growth.
Grapevine cuttings exhibit a natural polarity: new shoots grow from the top, while new roots develop from the bottom. This characteristic must be carefully considered when preparing and planting cuttings.
Different grape varieties vary in their ability to produce adventitious roots. European and American grape varieties generally root more easily than mountain or round types. Even within the same species, some varieties are more difficult to root than others. For example, certain Kyoho varieties, such as Fujisawa, are known to be challenging when it comes to rooting.
The availability of stored nutrients also plays a significant role in successful rooting. Carbohydrates, particularly starch, are essential for root formation, as experiments have shown that higher starch content improves rooting success. Nitrogen compounds are also important, and an adequate supply supports the overall health of the cutting. Therefore, choosing fully mature and strong branches is critical for good rooting outcomes.
When collecting cuttings, it's important to select from healthy mother plants that are true to variety and free from pests or diseases. Avoid using weak or poorly performing plants, as this can lead to lower-quality seedlings and genetic degradation.
Cuttings are usually collected during winter pruning. Choose well-developed, healthy branches with short internodes, uniform color, and no signs of damage. Cut these into 7-8 inch sections (about 50 cm) and bundle them in groups of 50 to 100. Label each bundle with the variety name and collection location. Store them in a sand pit, preferably in a dry, elevated area. The pit should be 60-80 cm deep, with a layer of wet sand (10-15 cm thick) at the bottom. Place the cuttings flat or upright, but avoid piling too many layers to prevent heat buildup and mold. If sand is unavailable, moist soil can be used instead, with fine soil placed between bundles.
Three layers of cuttings are ideal for storage. Too many layers make management difficult and increase the risk of overheating and mildew. To improve air circulation, place a vertical bundle every 2 meters. Cover the top layer with straw and then add 20-30 cm of soil. In colder regions like Northeast China, the soil cover should be thicker to protect against freezing.
Regular monitoring of the storage temperature is essential, keeping it around 1°C. Temperatures above 5°C can accelerate respiration and cause premature bud growth, while temperatures below -3°C risk frost damage. The humidity should also be controlled—too much moisture can lead to mold, so regular turning and ventilation are necessary.
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