Grafting is a common method used to propagate grapevines by using cuttings. Depending on the type of branch, cuttings can be classified into hardwood cuttings and green cuttings. In commercial vineyards, hardwood cuttings are most frequently used due to their reliability and ease of handling.
The process of root formation in grapevines involves the development of adventitious roots, which originate from the division of cells in the vascular ray area rather than from healing tissue. During propagation, it's common to observe the base of the cutting developing these roots. While the formation of callus tissue plays an important role in protecting the cut end from disease and decay, it does not directly influence root initiation. Instead, it creates a favorable environment for root development.
Roots tend to form more readily at the nodes of grapevines because these areas store more nutrients compared to internodes. Additionally, younger annual shoots generally root better than older perennial branches. This difference in rooting ability highlights the importance of selecting the right type of cutting.
Grapevines cannot produce adventitious buds from their internodes, so cuttings must include a healthy shoot. Similarly, roots themselves do not generate new shoots, meaning that rooting cannot occur from the base of a cutting. This phenomenon, known as polarity, means that the top of the cutting will develop shoots while the bottom will grow roots. This must be carefully considered when preparing and inserting cuttings.
Different grape varieties have varying abilities to regenerate roots. European and American grape species typically root more easily than mountain or round grapes. Even within the same species, some varieties may struggle with rooting—such as Fujisawa in the Kyoho line, which is known for its low rooting success.
Nutrient storage also plays a key role in successful rooting. Carbohydrates, especially starch, are crucial for root development, as shown in experiments where higher starch content led to better rooting. Nitrogen compounds are also essential, but too much nitrogen can hinder the process. Therefore, selecting fully mature and vigorous branches is vital for producing strong, healthy cuttings.
When collecting cuttings, it’s important to choose from high-quality mother plants that are free from pests and diseases. Avoid using weak or unproductive vines, as this can lead to poor seedling quality and loss of variety characteristics. Cuttings are usually taken during winter pruning, selecting one-year-old branches that are well-developed, with short internodes, vibrant color, and no signs of damage.
These branches are then cut into 7-8 segments (approximately 50 cm long) and bundled in groups of 50 to 100. Each bundle is labeled with the variety name and collection location before being stored in a sand pit. The storage site should be on elevated ground, with a ditch depth of 60–80 cm. A layer of moist sand (about 10–15 cm thick) is placed at the bottom, and the cuttings are arranged either flat or upright. To prevent overheating, layers of cuttings should be separated with dry soil. If sand is unavailable, moist soil with around 10% moisture can be used instead.
Cuttings are usually stacked in three layers, and a vertical pole is placed every two meters to improve air circulation. After all the cuttings are placed, the top is covered with straw and then 20–30 cm of soil. In colder regions, the soil cover should be thicker to protect against freezing. Regular monitoring is essential to maintain a temperature between 1°C and 5°C. Too high a temperature increases respiration and risk of mold, while too low a temperature can cause frost damage. Humidity levels must also be controlled to avoid rotting, and the cuttings should be turned periodically if necessary.
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